Milford Sound

Road to Milford Sound.

Cascade Creek campsite is so busy because it's the closest campsite to Milford Sound except for a very pricy commercial campsite right at the sound.  

We got up early so we could drive the very windy road before the tour busses from Te Anau and Queenstown showed up.

There's a kilometer-long one-way tunnel you have to go through and we didn't want to get stuck there and miss our cruise.

As ot was we got there in plenty of time.  We parked in the free lot and took the twenty-minute trail to the wharf.

We got some great views in the morning light.

Lots of birds along the path.

Money shot:

That's the iconic Mitre Mountain in the centre of the photo.

Money selfie:

Our cruise was on The Spirit of Milford, a catamaran.

Spirit of Milford

There were about 10 different cruise boats at the wharf.

A lone egret was posed on a post near the wharf.

Bird of the Day!

We sailed into the sound.

It's very scenic with the mountains shooting straight out of the sound.  Ahem, fjord.  The captain gave us commentary as we cruised, including an explanation of why the Sound is really a fjord.  

We sailed by waterfalls

Fjords are deep narrow valleys formed by glaciers.  Sounds are wider and formed by river valleys flooded by the sea.

We sailed out to the ocean and then turned back.  Captain Cook sailed right by the concealed entrance to Milford Sound.  Europeans didn't discover the Sound until 1812.  There was no road access until 1948 when the Homer Tunnel was built.

Outlet of Milford Sound

A highlight of the trip was seeing a pod of bottlenose dolphins.  We also saw fur seals hunting fish.

We'd opted for a package that included a water taxi 

Our water taxi. The pilot just ran the boat up on the gravel beach.

over to the Milford Track, a four-day hike from the head of Lake Te Anau to the aptly named Sandfly Point.

We had to rush back along the foreshore trail to make it to the water taxi wharf on time.  The pilot was just about to leave when a German couple with the same package arrived just in time.  Another couple missed the taxi.

Leaving the wharf.

Our pilot informed us that it was a 3 hour return trip to a scenic falls and that the last taxi would leave in three hours. So it was a mad hike to the falls

Sandfly Point.  The hiker in the photo is wearing a mosquito net.

It was quite a beautiful hike with views through the tree ferns to Milford River below.

We stopped for lunch at a bridge.

Bridge shenanigans.

On we raced until we finally reached the suspension bridge with a view of the waterfall.  

I declined to cross the suspension bridge.

We met many hikers on the last day of their trek.  Most of them were in their 60s and 70s.  I was impressed. (But they don't have to carry tents as they have to stay in the three huts on the track.)

On the way back we stopped on our lunchtime bridge.  Leo spotted something down on the rocks.  It was his cellphone!

We made it back to Sandfly Point in plenty of time to experience the flies and catch the taxi.  We bonded with the German couple over the stress of having to meet the time schedule.  Our pilot was impressed that we oldies made it to the falls.

On the drive back we stopped at several viewpoints. They all had signs warning of aggressive keas.  However, we failed to see any Kea, aggressive or otherwise.

Lots of these rocks with red lichen in Homer Pass. 

We were looking for this guy:

But no luck!

By the time we got back to the campsite it was pretty full.

Familiar sight in New Zealand. Loads of rental vans.

Budapest turns out to Celebrate Defeat of Victor Orban in Hungarian Election

 

To Milford Sound

 

We caught the 8 am ferry back to the main land.  We'd forgotten to bring Gravol but the seas were pretty calm and it worked out fine.

On our way to Lake Te Anau

After collecting our van  Weheaded northwest for Milford Sound.  It was all flat cow and sheep Ranching country till we reached Lake Te Anau.

We reached the Department of Conservation campsite at Cascade Creek early in the afternoon to find it not busy at all and got a prime spot on the creek. After our experience at Mt. Cook we'd made sure we had a reservation.

DoC campsites provide outhouses, a covered shelter, non-potable water in this case, and a few picnic tables but certainly not a picnic table at every site.  By evening the campsite was full and there was a long line of vans parked next to us.  You can see the white markers on the photo above that show how close the sites are.  

Down the road was a nature trail through a red beach forest.

Lots of big trees

Of course with such big trees we could hear the birds above us but couldn't spot them so high up in the canopy.

We ran into this family. The little girl had a box painted with pictures of insects and the robin was trying to eat them!

In the evening this tree across the creek from our campsite was full of birds.

We saw pipipi (also called brown creeper) and rifleman (actually more like our North American brown creeper), fantails, and chaffinches. Robins were flitting around the van and even weka came trotting by.

What passes for gourmet campfare:  tortellini, carrots and coleslaw.

Ulva Island

On our last day on Stewart Island we walked over to the Golden Bay wharf to catch the water taxi over to Ulva Island.

Golden Bay Wharf

 

Ulva is a predator-free island so they're serious about keeping them off the island.

There were no rats in our backpack!

It's just a five minute boat ride over.  We followed a network of trails around the island.

The trees are much taller than on Stewart Island as it's never been logged. It's been a reserve since 1892.

Every time we stopped at a bench, a South Island Robin would come out to greet us.

We came out on some pretty beaches.

We managed to see some birds we hadn't come across before:

South Island saddleback, Bird of the Day!

Yellowhead

And there were kaka flying around.

At one point the trail comes out on a beach.  You walk down the beach and get back on the trail at the other end.  They warn you about the sea lions.

We came out on the beach and there was a sea lion.

I immediately headed down the beach but Leo stopped to take pictures.  The sea lion started coming for him.

We hightailed it to the other end of the beach.  A school group came along from the other direction and couldn't access the rest of the trail.  They had to turn back. 

Pretty seaweed

Everyone we ran into on the trail said they'd seen weka, but we weren't having any luck.

But then we came across one bumbling down the trail, paying no attention to us.

And walked right by us.

And then we saw two or three more.

Nice moss

Big trees! 

Back in town we heard that little penguins could be seen at the wharf at dusk so we walked down in the evening and saw about 5 of them swimming into shore.  Too dark for pictures.